Hermits Trail to Granite Falls (and back!)

After another very scenic breakfast at the Hermit's rest trailhead, I had a final reshuffle of equipment, leaving my down jacket, raincoat and plenty of food in the car and set out at 8:35am along the well marked Hermit's trail, marked on my map as being at an elevation of 6,640ft.

Starting off down Hermit's Trail

The track initially dropped quickly through the light, almost white coloured rock of the Kaibab formation and Coconino sandstone 2mi to a ledge, passing turnoffs to the Waldron and Dripping Springs Trails along the way. It found its way to the small Santa Maria spring, which I reached at 10:00am. The spring was barely running, and there were two hikers trying to fill up their water bottles for their final climb home - I made a note that this would be emergency water only.

First intersection - Waldron trail

From the shelter the trail traversed a further ~5mi along the side canyon, leading towards the yawning opening of the main Grand Canyon. I had to cross a few rockslides along the way. All were ok, except for one near Breazy Point and before Cathedral Rocks, where I was sliding down unstable rocky stuff and was completely freaked out!! Eventually I spotted the trail about 20m below and again scrambled down a gully of crazy gravel, starting a mini avalanche as I went. Phew. Made it. I looked back to see if I could spot a better way (knowing I had to return the next day) but nothing. Just crazy rock!

Rockslide of glowing red rock

I met a couple of hikers along the way, returning from further down in the canyon. Dave and Mark were “country folk from Louisiana” out for 3 days and were happy to take a breather and have a quick chat on the way up.

Meet Dave and Mark, country boys from Louisiana

Looking down towards Lookout Point (on left)

Cathedral Rocks

From Cathedral Rocks the trail took another steep descent to an exposed and hot plain sprinkled with tufts of cactus type grass, with an amazing backdrop of the north canyon walls.  

Views of the Colorado River

The trail went over two saddles. It was with great anticipation that I climbed each one, imagining the view to be revealed each time - it still took my breath away looking at those massive walls, layered and stretching out as far as I could see!

South Rim Grand Canyon in the afternoon light

I then took the Tonto trail east, heading towards Monument camp, marked by a tall tower of rock (the monument obviously). It was a pretty camp with a deliciously running creek, so I stopped for half an hour for a break. This would be a great place to stay!

The Monument of Monument Creek

At 4pm I thought I'd better get going - whilst the camp was ideal, I was tantalizingly only 1.3 miles from the Colorado River.

So back down a gravel and sandy canyon towards the river. Half way along I picked up a few little creeks that reflected gold in the late afternoon sun. It looked like we were all headed in the same direction.

To the Colorado River

After 50min I had made it! Yay! A sandy campsite at Granite Rapids. The Colorado roaring beside me. Yay! I went for a quick explore upstream, but finding no better camp sites, went back to the sand, put the tent up, got out the stove and cooked dinner hungrily.

Granite Rapids, just before dusk

I was in bed, exhausted, by 8:30pm with my alarm set for 5:15am. It had been a long day, and I was a little worried that I'd need the extra time to climb back up the 4500ft.

Man, that river was noisy! The sheer power of the water continuously forging across the rocks 5m away reminded me that we're in a biocentric world, not a man-centric one.

A moment to rest and read at the end of the day

Sandy campsite, close to the raging river

Next day. Up and at 'em. No stalling. Tent packed in the dark.  Away by first light at 6:00am. I was on a mission!

Up at the Monument camp by 6:50am for breaky, a coffee and water refill  - 5L in total - I was not going to be dehydrated! But I had also allowed enough if I had to camp out an extra night (I'd noted a few campsites on the way down).

Monument Creek - great place to top up water supplies

It was time to start up! I surprised myself by not being much slower heading up than when I came down!! (I think it's because I wasn't stopping to take as many photos). At one point a little squirrel came out on the path, and led me along for about 100m, before it lost interest and hid back in the shade out of the heat. That was the only little creature I saw the whole trip!

Desert flowers

By 12:45pm I'd reached the Santa Maria spring and small shelter, 2mi and 600m ascent from the finish. I'd found the previous 2mi on the flat, but directly in the sun, really hard, so figured I'd take a long break. Ate lunch. Drank 1L. Had cheese and bickies. Then set my alarm for a 20min nap.

Santa Maria Shelter - great place to rest for a while and absorb the surroundings

Perfect! I was ready to tackle the final slog fully hydrated, fueled and rested. It was a good plan. Starting at 2:30pm, I emerged on the car park at 4:15pm. Yay! So glad I made it! Unlike the Bright Angel super highway, I'd only met 4 ppl in 2 days. That was cool - having the whole canyon to myself. 

Tonight I'm celebrating! B&B (bed and bakery) at the Red Garter in the small town on Williams on Route 66, conveniently at the end of the road leading from the Canyon. Strip steak, veges and 2 pints of local beer at Red Raven on the main street. And about to order gelato.