Day 12: Wed - Emerging from the green tunnel

Taft Lodge to Taylor Lodge via an incredible view from Mt Mansfield

Morning awakening! The early morning light streamed in through the glass windows of the lodge shortly after 5:30am. I could see the pink of the sunrise reflect of the morning cloud - it was tempting enough to draw me out of my sleeping bag camera in hand to take a few shots.

We decided to walk up Mansfield and have breakfast with a view, so attempted to pack quietly whilst the others were sleeping, then said a silent goodbye to this great place to stay.

Early morning 

Taft Lodge

It didn't take long for us to climb the 0.3mi up to "The Adams Apple" for our first views. The wind buffeted us from the west, as it hit the steep slopes of the mountain and raced across the top. The early morning cloud was still rising, and occasionally drifted across our path. We could see how the area was given the name "Lake of the Clouds" on the map. It was beautiful to be up so high, by ourselves in the soft morning light.

We climbed further up to "The Chin", the highest point on the mountain at 4,393ft, scrambling up a few rocky cracks that added to the feeling of height. We'd climbed above the montane spruce-fir line, which had been replaced by ground hugging alpine meadow allowing us spectacular views both sides of the track. A perfect spot for coffee and breakfast!

The views were amazing! To the south we could see Camel's Hump peaking out from amongst the clouds.

Camel's Hump

As we sat and relaxed a couple of guys ran past, looking like they were training for trail running and the Race to the Top of Vermont race held in August. I felt a bit overdressed with a full overnight pack, hiking boots and raincoat, when these guys were just wearing sneakers and carrying waterbottles. But I was also sipping on freshly brewed coffee and eating pancakes, so it seemed an ok trade-off. We also felt the satisfaction of taking 7 days to walk here for the view! And were happy to savour every moment in the open, out of the green tunnel. A completely different feeling to just driving the car up, or taking the gondola.

We continued across the flat top of the mountain to the summit station, where we met the GMC caretaker from Taft. She was there to talk to the day trippers, coming up on the toll road or gondola, before heading down to Butler Lodge on the southern side. We chatted for a bit, then continued past The Nose (closed due to radio towers) and wound our way down a large crack in the forehead, formed by two large boulders that had fallen from the cliffs above. We were back to the forest.

Our next stop was Butler Lodge, another neat cabin. We thought about staying here for the night, but our ice cream deadline was nearing, and we were keen to get a few more miles out of the way.

Without too much trouble, we traversed around to Taylor Lodge, keeping an eye out for moose in the swampy sections (although the day was hot and humid, so we guessed the moose would be relaxing somewhere cooler). Taylor Lodge was a bit of a disappointment after the grandeur of the last two cabins - the exterior was caged and uninviting. Instead, we climbed up to a small lookout and put up the tent overlooking Lake Mansfield and the shadow of Mt Clark and Mt Mayo.

"Eeeek. Move!"I shouted, somewhat unhelpfully as I spotted a yellow and black snake, twisting like a crazy bike inner tube amongst the brown needles of the forest floor. Thankfully, both Billy and the snake kept their cool, and avoided confrontation. I had also forgotten that, unlike in Australia, most snakes here aren't venomous! It turns out that this was probably a Common Garter snake, and harmless to humans.

After this moment of excitement, the rest of the afternoon was free for reading and relaxing. We settled into our usual dinner cooking routine - something I look forward to each day!

Day 11: Tuesday - Wooded Lodgings

Whiteface Shelter to Taft Lodge via Sterling Pond and Smuggler's Notch

We made an early start on Tuesday, with a 3.8mi walk before breakfast. The previous day we'd looked out over the mountain range we had to pass - Morse Mountain, a low rounded mountain nearby, and then Madonna Peak, steep and covered in ski runs.

Breakfast at Sterling Pond

The trail became busier and busier as we ran into a number of day walkers (& their dogs) near Sterling Pond. We also met a couple of boys with fishing rods hoping to try their luck on some mountain trout. It was time to relax and take in the tranquil setting at the small hut overlooking the Pond. We assembled the MSR stove to brew our morning coffee, and sat back in the peaceful setting as a reward for the morning's steady walk.

Sterling Pond

After a leisurely break, we started up again heading down the steep slopes towards Smuggler's Notch. Love all these new names! The notch was a narrow pass between two mountains... we'd just walked down one, which logically meant we were about to go up the other. A perfect spot for a gondola connecting both sides, if you ask me!

Smuggler's Notch acquired its name from the 1800s when goods were transported through the region during trade embargo on Canada and Great Britain. In 1922 the road was improved, and the same route was used during Prohibition to import Canadian beer, wine and spirits.

The walk up from VT108 is a well worn path to the top of Mt Mansfield, the highest mountain in the state. It didn't take as long as we thought it may, and 90min later we had reached Taft Lodge. Taft Lodge is a beautiful log cabin, nestled amongst the spruce-fir forest, with a view out over Smugglers' Notch.

We were joined by a journalist from the Burlington Post, who was writing an article on the hut (and who subsequently interviewed us!) and two caretakers from the GMC. It was easy to spend the night in the hut, enjoying the scenery and talking with our fellow hikers.

Taft Lodge

A platter to celebrate

Interviews on the balcony

Dining in luxury

Evening lights

Day 10: Monday - The start of Week 2 in the Woods

Johnson to Whiteface Mtn
After a relaxed start to the morning at Nye's, we finally decided to get moving, and bundled into the convertible to be dropped off at the trailhead.

Track start near Johnson

I was feeling pretty good being back on the trail - clean, filled with scrambled eggs and pancakes and 3 cups of coffee. The track was flat too, following the river and introducing us slowly to the large climb ahead (at least I was expecting it this time!)

Starting the climb up Whiteface

We powered up the 2,500ft climb up Whiteface Mountain, reaching the summit with views over Mansfield Peak, in only a few hours. I was amazed at how much easier this was than last week!

It didn't surprise us to run into another Summer Camp group at Whiteface hut where we were planning to spend the night. This time it was an all girls crew accompanied by two leaders - a local girl and her counterpart from Hungary. After spending a day with all girls, the Hungarian seemed pleased to see us, and happily chatted well into the night. He mentioned some great walking in Hungary - apparently you can circumnavigate the country on the National Blue Trail - which caught our interest. He also talked a lot about the changes he's seen in his country, and the benefits of becoming part of the EU. Opening the borders to access other countries had allowed him to work in Scotland as an Au Pair the previous year - helping him learn English. It had also made it easier for many Hungarians who had family in nearby countries - when country borders are drawn, they don't always take into account the historical ethnic groups in a region.

Whiteface Shelter

Day 9: Sunday – The day of rest

Just Johnson

Today became a full day of rest. We spent the morning on the porch of the Loving Cup Café, drinking extra large cups of coffee and saying hello to the locals as they dropped in to get their morning coffee’s to go.

We’d contacted Marcia, the owner of nearby Nye's Green Valley Farm B&B and arranged to stay the night. Marcia was amazing! Despite the layers of mud caked on our shoes, clothes and packs, and our mosquito bitten unwashed selves, she embraced us with open arms, and even drove into town to pick us up in her convertible! Woo!

Marcia and her husband David have created an amazing, welcoming American farmhouse on their property. 

Green Valley Farm

Their garden is filled with colour – bright flowers, blueberry and raspberry bushes and a plot of sunflowers in the entrance way, buzzing with happy bees and butterflies. 

Inside, the place is filled with small details. Ink bottles collected from previous trips to England, stuffed toys, welcoming wall paper.

The building was originally a Stage Coach Tavern, built in 1811 and owned by Marcia's great grandfather. David mentioned he has often wished the walls could talk, and tell him stories from those days. We admired their vision to turn a rundown building into such a beautiful place.

We spent the afternoon outside picking berries and inside reading and relaxing. In the evening, Marcia even drove us into nearby Jeffersonville so we could pick up supplies from the General Store and have a nourishing dinner at the tavern - big steaks and a wholesome spinach, beet and chevre salad. I feel great now! And perhaps even ready for another week of hiking

Day 8: Saturday - A short stop at home base

Corliss Camp to Johnson

I was looking forward to the luxuries and excesses of being in a town, and was more enthusiastic to get out of my cozy sleeping bag this morning than I have the other days. The two Vermonters were still dozing, suspended in their hammocks a metre off the ground as we folded up the tent and stuffed everything into our packs according to the morning routine we were now accustomed too.

Sleeping bag, check, khaki roll mat, check, random bag of clothes and bits and pieces, check. Billy slotted the red cups, yellow bowls nesting the fry pan lid and gas bottle neatly into the bottom of his pack in front of the purple tent bag.

First up was a steep, 2.7mi climb up Laraway Mtn to a beautiful breakfast spot, perched on a rare rock ledge free from the spruce-fir forest on the lower slopes of the mountain. Sky blue, and sun shining, it was great to take in the previous week of hiking as we sipped our coffees– we picked out the fire tower on Belvidere Mtn and could see Jay Peak further back again in the haze on the horizon.

A steep climb...

...rewarded by a great view

We started off down the steep northern slope of Laraway, the forest transforming from spruce-fir to northern hardwood of beech, birch and maple as we dropped below 2,500ft. It was fairly easy walking and enjoyable listening to the birds in the forest. As we don’t have a nature book with us, we’ve started naming them ourselves. There’s the Blues Bird, that has a melancholy tune and the Digital Warbler, that sounds like a radio dial being spun.

Coming back up from Codding Hollow we came across a huge rock overhang which made a great excuse for a rest break. 

It felt like we were nearing the end of our day, but a quick look at the map, and Billy confirmed that we had at least another 10km to Johnson, and a few more ups and downs. My shoulders sunk momentarily. I was ready for a bottomless cup of Coke now!

The last few climbs weren’t too bad, and were broken by toasted tortillas for lunch at Roundtop Shelter – one of the nicer shelters we’ve seen, made from logs from the surrounding mountains.

Roundtop Shelter

Well into maple country now, Billy made an attempt to suck dry the maple syrup lines strung up in the forest. Unfortunately, the veins of sugary goodness were dry, the sap that is converted from the starch stores in the tree's roots in the spring long gone by mid-summer.

Empty!

We took a shortcut around Prospect Rock, down leafy Prospect Rock Road passing an increasing number of houses nestled in the woods. It would be a pretty place to live during the summer, but even better in a cold Vermont winter, surrounded by snow!

Walking along Prospect Rock Road

We eventually emerged on the highway 1.8mi from town. Being so close put extra energy in my stride, and we quickly passed a maple factory and organic farms in pursuit of pub fare.

I immediately loved Johnson. Narrow and tall, long weatherboard houses lined the main street of this small town. There was a town hall, church, grocery store and a couple of pubs – including a place called Wicked Wings.

We devoured our first dinner – burgers, chips and a bottomless cup of Pepsi. I didn’t realize this at first. I finished my first glass and the bartender brought a new one. I thought maybe he’d misheard something I’d said, or that this was just part of the prompt American service culture. I finished the second glass, and before I could say anything, a third appeared. Feeling obliged to finish it, I downed another pint of Pepsi. It was then that Billy explained that I’d just have to leave a partially drunk cup. Lucky he did, as I was starting to fizz with a sugar high!

Dinner - round 1

First pints of ice-cream!

First world problems, huh. We were also working through another problem. Where to stay. We had contacted all of the suggestions in our Long Trail guide and everything was full. After a dash across the street, and a chat with a few locals at the bar, we worked out the only option was to head out to the Long Trail Tavern, a couple of km’s out of town, and camp outside.

I wasn’t looking forward to walking again, but felt a bit better after all the Pepsi. We went back along the road past the organic farms and maple syrup factory and met Jeremy, the new owner of the Long Trail Tavern. He took us down to a grassy clearing by the river where we could put our tent for the night. The bugs were vicious, but it was somewhere!

Better refuge was found at the warmly lit bar, eating our second dinner (pizza and pints of Long Trail Ale) next to the neon signs on the front windows, and talking baseball with Jeremy as his team played on the big screen in the background.

There are two competitions in the US, the American League and the National League. Between serving other locals beers from the wide range of taps behind the bar, Jeremy explained that the only difference is whether the pitcher bats. I was confused by this at first – but then he explained that often opposition pitchers send down body shots to injure a team’s pitcher when batting. Ouch. But also crazy that the two organisations couldn’t come to an agreement and bring the sport together.

The two leagues merge in the Major Baseball League and World Series playoffs each year. I was also amazed that each team plays over 160 games in 6 months! That’s almost a game a day. We talked a bit about the similarities with cricket – that you don’t always pitch/bowl to get an out. That both games can be highly strategic and play on the relationship between the pitcher/bowler and batter.

It was the perfect way to spend the evening – beers, pizza & baseball.  The American way of life is not so bad.